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Beef Short Ribs with Seville Orange Sauce
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Last week while at the Berkeley Bowl a couple types of citrus caught my eye.
One was Bergamot and the other was Seville Oranges. The name bergamot was
familiar but it took me a while to remember that I it is an ingredient in Earl
Grey tea. Seville Oranges are a bitter Mediterranean variety most commonly
made into marmalade or used in orange sauce for duck since its high acidity is
balanced by the fattiness of the duck. This week I threw a couple of the Sevilles in my basket not sure what I would do with them. The obvious choice
was duck but I had noticed that short ribs were on sale at Ver Brugge but didn'
t connect the two ideas until I got home. I remembered seeing a short rib
recipe in Cooking By Hand by Paul Bertolli so I looked there first. I
expected to find it in the Bottom Up chapter which is dedicated to braising
however I found Short Ribs Agrodolce in the Aceto Balsamico chapter instead.
Agrodolce is Italy's version of sweet and sour. The recipe calls for saba and
condiment grade balsamic vinegar. Saba is a sweet reduction of the same grape
must used for balsamic vinegar, except cooked down even more, to about one-
third its original volume. With this model in mind I went ahead with a standard
braise and using the zest and juice from the seville oranges along with
balsamic vinegar and red wine.
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